JuliannaMucci
Fine Art Jewelry and Lampwork Beads
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
~Cabochon
~Size 11 seed beads
~Size 15 seed beads
~Thin beading Needle (size 12 or 13 works best)
~fireline or whatever threading material you prefer...I do recommend a THIN line...you may go thru the 15s a couple of times.
~a working knowledge of peyote (flat is ok..but you are about to learn a variation of tubular)
*** Backing your cab with ultrasuede prior to beading around it gives it a much nicer "finished" look in the final piece of jewerly.
*Cabs will have varying thicknesses. Read the entire tut before beginning so that you can adjust the instructions accordingly to fit the width of the cab you are working with. Thinner cabs will require LESS rows of size 11...and thicker will require more.*
1. String enough size 11 seed beads to make a loosely fitted loop around your cab.
IMPORTANT: an EVEN number of beads in this loop is the easiest route to go. (I do NOT bead cabs with an odd number in the first row if I can help it.) Go back thru the FIRST bead you added and a few more beads in the line. (I tend to loop back thru the entire loop just to keep some tension as I work).
This is where I will tend to bead..and then UNBEAD a bit. You just have to play with the number of beads needed to make the loop. It will tighten up SLIGHTLY as you work, so you don't want it too small to begin with. You also don't want it so loose that it will not fit the cab snuggly when you cinch the beadwork on.
2.Once you have run the thread thru a few beads, add a size 11, skip the bead directly next to the one you just exited, and go into the next bead. (peyote).
Do this all the way around the loop TWICE...so that you have at least two beads side by side all the way around. Keep your tension as tight as is possible to avoid pooches and visible thread.
It is NOT necessary to hold the cab in the beadwork yet! TENSION IS IMPORTANT. KEEP YOUR FIRELINE PULLED TIGHTLY AS YOU WORK.
3. The next row around will be done with 15s. This will start to tighten up your loop for fitting over the top of the cab. The silver beads in the picture are size 15...see how you can now see the black size 11s on the bottom appear to flair out? This is because the top is tightening in.
Add a 15, skip a bead, go into the next bead, and repeat all the way around TWICE. The second row will cinch the beads in tightly so that they will hug the top of your cab. The green beads on top are the second row of 15s.
At this point you should have a half circle/oval (half the width that will be needed to completely encase the cab). Put your cab in so that you can shape the beads to it. It should fit snuggly at this point in the cinched beads.
Remove the cab.
Hold the cinched beadwork between your thumb and pointer finger as you work so that you will not disturb the shape.
This is where you have to be the judge! In most cases, you will need to add another row (or two) to the ORIGINAL row of beads. (THE BOTTOM) Thread your needle thru your beadwork to the bottom row, and peyote another row around with your 11s. Add as many rows as you need to so that...(after each row, place your cab in the beadwork until)...
ONLY a SINGLE row of beads breaks the bottom edge of the cab when the cab is placed into the circle tightly.
Once you have achieved enough rows for this, begin another row with 15s! This will begin to cinch up the bottom of the beadwork to fit UNDER the cab...securing it. After I have gone about halfway around with the size 15s, I will generally insert the cab into the beadwork now and continue working. (this helps to insure I don't tighten the beads so much I won't be able to get the cab in after adding the entire row of 15s.
TENSION IS IMPORTANT HERE! YOU WANT TO KEEP THE BEADS PULLED AS TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT SLICING YOUR FINGER WITH THE FIRELINE.
(almost finished)
Add your second and final row of 15s around the bottom of the beads, holding the cab in place. Keep your tension tight...and look at the top of the cab occasionally to make sure the cab is fitted in the beadwork evenly so that the top cinch rows lay nicely.
At this point...if the cab is secure, YOU ARE FINISHED. The bottom of your cab will look like the top.
Thread your line back into your beadwork all the way around (recommend threading thru the 11s and not the 15s) and cut it off. VOILA!
If your second row of 15s on the bottom doesn't cinch your cab in tightly enough...don't worry. Here is what you can do:
Netting: TENSION IS VERY IMPORTANT. pull tight.
From the 15 you have just exited, add 3 15s. SKIP 3 Beads and go into the 4th 15. This will make a little arch. PULL IT TIGHTLY...but don't break your beads. Repeat this all the way around, and thread your line back into the beadwork and all the way around the cab in the size 11s.
And now, you have beaded a cab. :)
Congratulations!
